Jewellery Box - Part 2

After gluing the carcase I found that (despite the fact all four feet were on the assembly table and level, the front being all square and the drawer dividers level to each other) the top two sides were not co-planer to each other. I can only imagine some error has crept in during making the two side parts. Anyway the cure was to remove the thin veneer from the left hand end grain face and glue on a thick one (about 2 mm thick or just over 1/16")
When the glue setup I took the block plane and planed a slight taper from front to back. This resulted in a 0.5 mm veneer at the front gently tapering to about 1.5 mm at the rear on the left hand side as shown in the picture.

This will only be seen by fellow woodworkers (and of course you dear reader) but it does now mean the lid will fit without any obvious gaps that would have been seen by everybody!

I then glued in a milled piece of walnut at the back that will become the hinge board. This too was planed down flush with the sides. Everything on the top surface is now co-planer so the lid will sit flat.

Jewellery Box - Part 1

I am in full swing at TMCWoodworks Towers at the moment making Christmas gifts. One of the projects is a jewellery box as a surprise for my fantastic wife Elly. She never reads my blog so I'm safe to post it here (I hope).
Anyway the box is based upon a Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop project. I bought the plans from the NewYankee Workshop website and adapted them to my needs. As ever I re-drew it using Trimble Sketchup.

This is what it will look like when it's finished.

Box closed - drawer pulls not shown

Box open

Materials

Some time ago I bought a whole raft of lumber and in the pile were some really nice pieces of American Black Walnut. I didn't have enough to do the entire project but sufficient for the exterior details.
The drawer interior components will be made from oak with 1/4" plywood bases. The design also has a hidden drawer which is a fun item.
The hardware will be all Brusso brass components.

Stock prep

I set to work milling all the stock for the carcase to size and glueing the walnut facing on the oak drawer dividers. The sides are made from solid walnut in two pieces. I used Titebond II dark wood for the glue so I didn't get a light glue line. Next the sides were cut to shape with their tapered legs.

Sketchup view of the side panel

The stopped dados (stopped housings) were cut at the router table and I milled some tenons on the drawer dividers. To finesse the tenons into the dados I used a combination of my Record 078 rabbet plane and my Stanley 93 shoulder plane. Both planes are tuned to perfection and produced perfect fits.

Sketchup view of the inside of the side
panel showing dados and rabbets.
BTW I forgot to take pictures while
I was doing the actual work!

The dividers were glued into the side panels and clamped overnight. I also took the opportunity to cut a thin veneer of walnut and applied it to the the top exposed end-grain of the sides.

Carcase clamped up

Carcase revealed.

A lot of work left to do and I have to do this surreptitiously so don't let the cat out of the bag wood fans.

Anna - one of my shop cats

Anna came to us as a young kitten along with Amber who is two months younger. Anna was 2 years old in September and Amber had her 2nd birthday November 1st 2013.
Anna loves my shop and finds all sorts of hidey holes. Her favourite position is on top, yes on top, of my dust/chip extractor. Needless to say it is not running at the time. The extractor has a metal insert to keep the filter bag in an upright position and is a perfect cat perch.

Anna up on her perch

"It's great up here!"

This table saw is a nice place to sit

Shower Room Vanity Unit - Part 10 - Finishing and installation

I sprayed the cabinet with water from a handheld bottle sprayer. After it dried it had raised the grain and I knocked it back with 320 grit.
The cabinet was then finished in General Finishes Outdoor 450 and I hand applied it. There were 3 coats inside and out to the cabinet and drawers. The top was finished with the same finish buy this was sprayed on with HVLP.
I lightly sanded back between coats and the initial raising of the grain treatment had worked really well. The cabinet ended up with a silky smooth finish.

Cabinet after appling the finish.

The cabinet was then installed in the wet-room. The cut outs I had designed in to clear the water inlet and waste outlet pipes worked like a dream. The top was slid into place after disconnecting the waste water outlet pipe and the cabinet slid underneath. There is about 1.6 mm (1/16") clearance from the top to the underside of the wall mounted basin. I simply sealed the gap with some clear bathroom sealant and the top was secured to the cabinet with some shop made clips.

View showing those awesome
spalted beech door panels

The cabinet is now in situ
and being used.

Thanks for looking at this very enjoyable project.

Terry