Wall mounted Plane and Tool Cabinet - Part 4 - Internal Door

The internal door was made simply by measuring the internal dimensions of the carcass and cutting the upright stiles to this dimension short by about 3/32" (2.5 mm). This gives more than adequate clearance for the door to clear the carcass. There isn't much danger of wood movement as both the door and the carcass are made from birch plywood.
The cross stretchers were cut to size. I had calculated that the swing of the relatively deep door (5") would miss the carcass if the closed gap at the non hinge side was about 9/16" for the trailing edge to clear.
I gave the door 7/8" gap.

Then door was simply constructed by gluing and screwing the butt joints. The ply panel was also glued and screwed into place. I decided to change the design slightly and positioned the ply panel 1" in from what would become the front. This way I could use both sides of the door to hand items.
The screw head holes were plugged with more walnut plugs. Finally both sides of the exposed ply ends were covered with walnut bindings.

Edge banding glued in place after removing the
forest of clamps and waiting to be trimmed

I really like my chisel plane
it is great for removing squeeze out

Test fitting. Note I originally intended to use hidden hinges
but opted instead for another stainless steel piano hinge.

 Once the piano hinge arrived I fitted it to the door panel first of all. Again I cut a slight rabbet this time 1mm (40 thou ") deep for the hinge moving leaf. Then using scraps from the shop to prop the door to the right level I could position it ready for the screws.

Door props

Just in case you were wondering the outer door
also needed propping in this exercise.
MDF offcuts come in very useful.

To position the lower end of the door and ensure I had enough clearance at the bottom and top I simply used a card scraper of the right thickness.

Another use for blue tape!

I was able to drill most of the holes with a vix bit but
those close to the bottom (and top) had to be
drilled with a regular pilot drill and a long flexible shaft.

Here you can see what is on the other end of the flexible shaft.

 I then had both doors fitted and stood the cabinet upright. The trailing edge of the door slightly caught the inside of the cabinet so, using a block plane, the edge was chamfered with a 3/16" chamfer. The door then cleared perfectly. In fact when closing the door there is air resistance because of the fit and it shuts satisfyingly.

Closing the door

Nearly closed

Fully closed
You can see the 1" deep tray on the inner door now.
This gives more storage space for thinner tools without
interfering with any tools in the outer door.

Now you can see the entire cabinet opened up.
Plenty of room to store planes and other tools.

Now to make the drawers.