Wall mounted Plane and Tool Cabinet - Part 9 - French cleat and hanging the cabinet

The methid of hanging the cabinet is to make use of the French cleat system. This is where a board has one edge ripped with a 45 degree angle. This board is fixed to the back of the cabinet and there is another board (again with an opposing 45 degree angle) fitted to the wall. The cabinet cleat then simply locks into the wall cleat.
As the cabinet full of tools could potential weigh 200 to 300 pounds both of the cleats need to be mounted firmly to the both the cabinet and the wall.

The wall in my shop is a combination of brick and concrete blocks. First of all I had to mount a vertical cleat to the brick work to make it up to the same level as the blockwork.
I used Rawlbolts (expanding sleeve wall bolts) to mount to the brickwork.

French cleat mounted to the wall
The lower board is not a cleat but
acts as a spacer for the bottom of the cabinet 

The cleats on the wall are made from 3/4" baltic birch ply.

Wall mounted Plane and Tool Cabinet - Part 8 - Inner door infill piece

As the inner door has quite a thickness I had to build in a clearance of about 25mm (1") when it was closed. This resulted in a large unsightly gap so I ripped some scrap walnut to around 22mm (7/8") wide and fitted it at the front edge with a slight reveal of about 1/4"

Gluing the infill piece into place

The finished results

I think that the space behind the infill piece could be used to mount steel rules.

Wall mounted Plane and Tool Cabinet - Part 7 - Drawers grooving and glueup

The next part was to mill a groove into each drawer part to suit the captive plywood drawer bottom.

I set the 1/4" router cutter so it was in the centre of the half blind dovetail socket. This happened to be 1/4" in from the base.

Setting the router cutter with a Trend
setting gauge

A pile of drawer parts ready to be grooved.

Wall mounted Plane and Tool Cabinet - Part 6 - Drawer parts (Pin boards)

The front panels of the drawers will have half blind dovetail sockets. The rear will just be through dovetails. The stock was milled to size and cut to fit the drawer aperture. In my country on drawers of this small size 95 deep x 202 wide (3-3/4" x 8") I am able to have just 1/32" clearance on the top of the drawer and slightly less for the sides. We don't get massive swings of humidity so those clearances are fine.

There are a variety of methods of marking from the tail boards onto the pinboards - balancing the tailboards on bench plane while holding the pin board in a vise, trying to mark them whilst balanced on your knee, getting somebody else to do it for you - to name but a few.

My method of marking

The first thing I do is very lightly mark the end grain with the marking gauge (you remembered not to alter the setting didn't you?) Then I clamp the pin board in the bench vise and have the endgrain end just slightly proud of the vice (only a hair). Then I square the board to the bench top with my engineers square.